Tag: trains

  • Well Sea

    Well Sea

    A quick trip to see the ocean often reveals the simplest possible truths. You might hear seagulls, ride in the historic Mt. Washington steam train, climb said mountain in a car (though without racing) and, in the banality of basic tourism, find a few moments worth remembering: that most essential something which seems to live in the water, in the sound of waves, in the gulls and the smells of salt and seaweed. It lingers long after, like the faintest echo of the surf you might hear in a seashell, or in the wind through a window, or through the rows of Iowa corn a thousand miles from the water.

    In the quaint beach shops of North America, alongside surfboards, t-shirts, fudge candy, and the smells of coffee and cheap milk, there lingers a distinct scent of desperation. The shops cluster at one end of each beach, like seaweed left strewn there, while between them stretch multi-million-dollar summer homes, condos, hotels like teeth along the rim of the bay. The people want to live here, but only in the summer. They don’t want to work the shops. Who will serve fudge when the last condo takes over the last quaint walking street, and the last surf-shop has finished its metamorphosis into a distant Wal-Mart?

    A little further away, in a swamp of mosquitos if you can find one, there might spread some dense checkerboard of recreational vehicles, where those wealthy enough to buy one of those behemoth’s on wheels, but not wealthy enough for one of the summer houses, might take temporary refuge in their pursuit of an escape. But there does not seem to be any place to escape among the vehicles packed in like beans in a can, stewing in the smells of BBQ and the sounds of the neighbor’s Netfl

    Despite all of this, there is the sea. It will be here when the last shop closes. There will be seaweed on the shore when the condos have gone. Maybe then, someone will want to sell fudge.

  • Trunks of This Size

    Trunks of This Size

    It is amazing, certainly amazing, how many people have told you that to travel with these chests is impossible. On the third train out from Nice, crawling across Italia via the walking speed regionals that are the only ones the chests fit on, all alone in the last car on the train, the ticket man walks in, looks at the chests and says “It is IMPOSSIBLE, absolutely IMPOSSIBLE to travel with baggage of this size!!” It is hard to restrain the response “we’re on a train. it is moving. I think we are traveling.”

    But the dramatic mystery always works out in the end. It is the word “Circus,” that almost always proves magical. As soon as any official sees the print “Marmalade Circus” on the side of the behemoths that you’ve privately come to call Mass and Inertia, they seem to come to the internal conclusion that whatever we’re up to is alright. Some even smile and laugh.


    It took two full days of travel to get to Venecia from Nice. Granted the first was spent mostly in the tiny border station of Ventimelia trying to figure out which trains could hold the chests, and which could not. The night before you had arrived there well prepared to get on a sleeper train strait to Venice, but no luck. Only Gaelyn and Darla got on that train with beds in stead of chairs, on account of having bought tickets that they could not afford to lose. The other three stayed that night outside the station, sleeping in the shadow of a spreading palm tree under the waxing moon, and the smell of the over-full dumpsters ten feet away lulled you to sleep.

    Shortly after the encounter with the ticket man, who had stomped away mumbling “mumma mia” (yes, they do actually say that) the reginal train broke down, and the five of you, three men and two chests, spent two and a half hours waiting on a graded track in the sunlight, and leaning against the leaning walls that lilted sideways.

    In the end you made it to Venice in the late evening, just after midnight, and just after the last trolley to the camp ground, where the other two waited, left the port. So you spent your first night in Venice sleeping by the light of the full moon as it reflected off the grande canal, and listening to the radio of one of the other stranded travelers who shared the train station’s veranda with you.

    Come dawn, you were awoken by a security guard, and took the first boat back to the mainland, there to gently wake the other two. The rest of the day was spent wandering Venice, looking for pitches and enjoying the countless shops of Venician Masks, and Glass.

    Though the island of Venice is one of the largest tourist traps in the world, there is something that subtly distinguishes it from places like the Eiffel Tower or the Tower of London. Most such traps are a place within a city – a little area that surrounds something of great fame, where countless thousands of Indonesia-made stickers and baseball caps are sold. Venice though, is itself the attraction. The entire city exists almost exclusively on the sustenance of tourism, which gives the stuff of the place a different quality. The glass, the masks, even the gelatto, it is all incredible. To go there again, would be completely worthwhile. But more money would be better.
    It is unfortunate that you could not stay there longer, but it was so expensive, and in order to perform it was necessary to acquire a pass from the government. The representatives of that government were almost unbelievably friendly, and apologized profusely when it became clear that you did not have the necessary visa. Despite this, the experience of Venice was worth the days of travel and trouble.

    Now you are headed for Rome, and will be spending the night in front of the station in Florence before you get there. Everything is well, and life is good.

  • Cap d’Agde

    Cap d’Agde

    The internet cafe in Cap d’Agde smells of the Mediterranean sea. This makes sense as it is no more then a hundred tourist swarmed shop filled yards away. It took you two days to find this place, granted that you didn’t spend too many of the sun baked hours in the balmy sea-side air looking. No, sun bathing and Mediterranean sea bathing seemed to be better uses of your time, but now that you have found access to the wonderful international internet, you’re content to spend a few minutes away from the baleful eye of the day star and update your e-journal.

    The last few days in Paris are not ones that you are likely to forget soon. You spent each afternoon doing short vaudevillian performances, enough to earn money for food and have some fun. You met a few really cool people, including Marion, the french three pin contact juggler, and Anna and Sara, acro partners from a Swedish cirque school. All three of the above joined you for your final performance in Paris on the night of the 15th, the night France celebrates its independence in a display of fireworks not unlike our 4th of July; a display that you missed completely because it started half an hour early while you and all your new friends were still rushing towards the Eiffel Tower through the subways.

    The trip to Cap d’Agde was a nice long 8 hours of train, starting at midnight the following night. Agde is like Florida only French. It’s hot here, and you’re very, very glad you finally got the wheels on the big chest sorted out before you made the four hour hike pushing both chests from the train station to the beach house where you’re staying.

    Also, you would like to profess your undying love and appreciation of the extreme awesomeness of the Matzkin family. The beach house is bliss. You are out of e-money now, so you will sign off. You hope to do your first Agde performance tonight. All is well, even if you are totally broke and a little hungry.